Katas Raj

Chakwal in Potohar Salt Range Mountains has had a long shared history `deeply rooted in Hinduism ..there were prior to 1947 several towns and villages whose landscapes were dotted with innumerable temples of yore .Some go back to hundreds of years before the birth of Christ when the white man wrote the story of civilisation began .Gah , Bhaun , Dhudial , Kariyala, are some of its famous Hindu populated villages before 1947 .
One such religious centre that post 1947 was in oblivion was Katas Raj a complex of antiquity merely 40 kms from Chakwal that since Ranjit Singh’s period and beyond has produced many a men of soldierly class .So it was last year that on my trip to Pakistan my friends urged me to visit this abode of Pandavas of Mahabarata fame who had ,during their many years in exile , spent a greater part in this area .Early last year my friend Subramony Ramaswami Subramony had expressed his keen desire to visit this holy complex and unknowing to him it dawned on me I was perhaps also to make this pilgrimage for him .
So it was one fine morning we left after breakfast to this ancient site that has had many an excavations around of fossilized animals and a virtual goldmine sitting to bhe excavated .Taking motorway I was remembering names of relatives whom I recalled having left these parts in the wake of the exodus of 1947 .
Katas in Sanskrit means raining eyes - tears from Shiva on the death of his consort Parvati and thus this site along with Pushkar was one of the holiest of holy Hindus sites prior to partition .It is said to behold till then perhaps the oldest Shiva lingam and the lake is believed to eb one with magical powers that to this day is as fresh as ever and taking bath in its holy waters makes one ever lasting ‘ amar ‘ as they say .
Nearly one third of their thirteen years of exile that Pandavas spent in Katas also is theplace where one of the Pandava brothers, Yudhishtra , defeated the Yaksha with his wisdom, bringing his brothers back to life.The complex besides several temples of antiquity has also a Gurdawara that was built by Hari Singh Nalwa who also built a huge haveli almost like a fort .As the complex is now open for Hindu pilgrims whose jatha regularly comes here the guides erroneously refer to the Gurdawara also as a temple despite its construction being at variance with other edifices .
So as we parked our car I could see the sign board and a sign , the holy sign , of Om whose picture as I was taking a guide came upto me to offer his service .I was numbed and awed by the sanctity of the place as it was now crowded with school students out on a picnic to this complex .
My mind ran to the tales I had read and heard of the festivals and melas that were held for centuries at this place every year , year after year , particularly on a Baisakhi day , in many a millennia that Hinduism dates to .Of the hawkers who put up stalls selling trinkets of sadhus totally naked who had smeared their forehead and bodies with holy ash and were busy in meditating for the Bhole Nath ...and then suddenly I remembered Captain Abbott ( one who instigated the Second Anglo-Sikh War and thrust the onus on Chutter Singh and Shere Singh thereby helping the British to find an excuse to annexe the Sikh Kingdom and as a reward was named after Abbott’s name Abbottabad as headquarters of Hazara Province ) who has left a vivid account of his travel to Katas on 11th April 1848 .
‘Long strings of pilgrims encumbered the road on their way to the sacred fountain of Kuttass , one of the Eyes of the World .Here , all who wash at the propitious hour are supposed to be cleansed of their sins and healed of their diseases .....The Khuttrees are thronging in thousands - their wives and daughters unveiled , seated upon ponies and mules , and occasionally in kujawahs upon camels , and themselves leading on foot .”
12th April 1848 : “This being the second day of purification , I went to the Kuttass fountain , intending merely to sketch the scenery if interesting and to return .But the sight of so many thousands of people innocently happy was fascinating that I would not quit the spot and was insensibly beguiled into a holiday . In a deep hollow formed by two crags of limestone , the spring rises from a cleft in the rock which is of considerable depth ; the water fills a nearly circular basin of rock , about 60 feet in diameter , and then escapes down a dell richly wooded with mulberry , seesoo and palm trees .The pool is entirely walled in with large and substantial dwellings of modern date belonging to the Chiefs and Nobles of Lahore .....The stones of the subordinate buildings , which have not been plastered , have acquired deep furrows from the weather , which gives the idea of antiquity .
The whole of this picturesque retreat was crowded to profusion with natives in their holiday attire and holiday faces .For the first time in my life I saw whole families together - father, mother , husband , wife and children -all enjoying themselves together without constraint .The women unveiled and drest in their gayest attire , - crimson , blue , yellow and white ,- with head ornaments of the purest gold , occasionally beaded with pearls and rubies ....In no instance did I see a woman or a child on foot whilst the male was mounted ; and I observed husbands attending upon their wives and mothers by a most pleasing reversal of Indian etiquette .Every roof was covered with ex tempore tents and awnings .Every tree was crowded with gay figures reposing under its shade , and strings of men , women and children passing along the narrow lanes and alleys , whilst the water itself was crowded with swimmers and dippers .It is so crowded a space it is impossible for the fair bathers to escape all intrusion of curious eyes , but the utmost that innate modesty can effect is attempted , and their is no voluntary exposure .The fuquirs approached them as they bathe and present their dishes for alms , and no woman resists the appeal .But I observed one , who could not otherwise get rid of the importunate beggar , toss the water of the pool into his face.
About 20,000 people were here collected .A single instance of theft occurred , a man in the dense crowd caught a little boy’s earring , and cutting the ear with a small clasp knife carried off the prize , but he was caught with the booty upon him .
This fountain ,says tradition ,formerly poured forth poisonous waters , and all who dunk were destroyed .But Raja Judistar and his four Pandava brothers coming hither ,purified it by prayer , and now it is only equalled in efficacy , moral and physical ,by the fountain of Poosgurh ,which is the other eye of Prithvi .However we may call in question these miraculous properties , we cannot deny that it is a fountain of pleasure to thousands yearly .The sight of their happy faces is a refreshment to the spirit which I shall bear with me for many days .”
Alas , the scene that I beheld that was much different that day .There were no pilgrims no sadhus no awnings and none of the holy trappings Abbott has left a record of .What I saw were stream of curious young people busy taking pictures and selfies from all vantage spots .
During the Sikh rule this place was also the holy place where Ranjit Singh came to take bath after victories in the battle fields and alms to poor were given and Brahmins feasted as also jagirs and donations given to the complex .
After years of neglect a decade ago the Pakistan Government cleaned and restored the complex .The Katas site houses the Satgraha, a group of seven ancient temples, remains of a Buddhist stupa, a few medieval temples,havelis and some recently constructed temples, scattered around a pond considered holy by Hindus.[5] The temples at Katas are mostly constructed on square platforms. The elevation of the sub shrines seems to form a series of cornices with small rows of pillars, crowned by a ribbed dome.
The Gurdawara that the guides call Ramchandra Mandir is situated to the east of the Hari Singh Haveli and is closed from all sides except for an entrance on the east. The double-storied structure has eight rooms of various dimensions on the ground floor and a staircase at the south leading to the first floor. This clearly establishes this is same Sikh Gurdawara that Hari Singh Nalwa built here .It has two jharokas (balconies) that have been severely damaged.
The Hanuman Mandir is on the western extreme of a high rectangular enclosure with entrances on the south and the north. The ceiling is undecorated, and lime-plastered.The Shiva temple is also built on a square platform. Its entrance is a recessed round arch with faint cusps and a rectangular opening to the north.
As I walked in I saw an enterprising young man holding a snake in the tree twig on which it had recoiled .On being questioned where he found this venomous creature he said in the swimming pool .It sent shivers down my spine thinking of my friend Ramaswami Subramony who longed to take a dip in these holy waters !